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Thursday, January 19, 2012

Paul's Picks from the LCBO New Release of January 21, 2012 - Red and White Smart Buys and Who's Zoomin Who? (Caution, Red Flags Ahead)

Hello to all my wine friends,

Looking at this New Release (NR) a few wines grabbed my attention and most of these came from Australia, where the main feature of this NR is "Australia's got Style". Two other wines in this release certainly caught my eye, they were a Chenin Blanc from South Africa and an affordable Spanish red rated at #26 on the Top 100 of 2011 in Wine Spectator Magazine. Caution, don't pass up on some added words of advice from your personal Sommelier below in the Who's Zoomin Who section. Well lets get started.

Smart Buys, Red;
  • Cooralook Shiraz 2008 from Australia (262451) at $18.95. My favourite Shiraz are usually from the cooler region of South Australia like this Shiraz from the region of Heathcote. Alcohol is a bit high for this region at 14.5%, but with rich ripe fruit and natural acidity make this wine well balanced.
  • Hewitson Miss Harry 2009 from Australia (107870) at $23.95 This Rhône blend (50% Grenache, 40% Shiraz, 5% Mourvèdre with the balance equal portion of Cinsault and Carignan) is from the warmer region of Barossa Valley. This wine is a smart buy for people looking for a big rich Aussie Red.
  • Descendientes De J. Palacios Pétalos 2009 from Spain (675207) at $22.95 This is a rich and elegant wine from the region of Bierzo in Northwest Spain, made by star Spanish wine maker Alvaro Palacios and his nephew Ricardo Perez. This wine is made with 100% Mencia old vines grapes and scored at #26 on Wine Spectator top 100 of 2011.
  • Hech & Bannier St-Chinian 2009 from France (184184) at $23.95 This wine is from the south of France, Languedoc-Roussillon region, I would guess a blend of mostly Syrah with a few other grapes (hard to find any info on this wine). In November of 2010 the LCBO released the 2007 vintage which was really superb. This is always a big wine, which needs a few years in your cellar if it is to be enjoyed at its best.
Smart Buys, White;
  • La Chablisienne Saint-Bris Sauvignon Blanc 2010 from France (641753) at $13.95 This is a rare Sauvignon Blanc (SB) from the small appellation of Saint-Bris in Burgundy. What to expect from this SB? Chalky flavours and food friendly acidity to pair with oysters, shelf fish or grilled white fish. At this price, how can you go wrong?
  • Morgenhof Estate Chenin Blanc 2010 from South Africa (978544) at $16.95 Looking for something different? Try this 100% Chenin Blanc from 41 year old vines in South Africa. Maturation took place for 10 months in French oak Suggested pairing, try this wine with pork tenderloin in cream sauce, grilled chicken or white fish.
  • Foxglove Chardonnay 2009 from California (262022) at $19.95. Very few unoaked California Chardonnay finds it's way into the Ontario market. This wine is a great way to try the natural taste of a warmer climate Chardonnay without the influence of oak aging. An interesting side by side tasting would be to try Foxglove Chardonnay 2009 and from the last NR the Domaine du Chardonnay Chablis 2009. Both wines are from the same vintage (2009), both unoaked, both same price, one from warmer climate California and the other cooler region of Burgundy. To see my review of Domaine du Chardonnay Chablis 2009 follow this link;  http://paulnjoywine.blogspot.com/2012/01/domaine-du-chardonnay-chablis-2009.html
  • I Campi Campo Vulcano Soave Classico 2009 from Italy (269969) at $19.95 This wine is on many peoples best Italian white of the year and received a rating of 3 glasses out of 3, from the very good Italian wine magazine Gambero Rosso Italian Wines. This white wine is a blend of Garganega and Trebbiabo grapes and is grown in volcanic soil. Expect bright flavours, mineral notes and vibrant acidity, I can't wait to get my hands on a few of these.

Who's Zoomin Who? (Caution, Red Flags Ahead); When going through a NR booklet, I often see comments or quotes that raise a red flag for me. Some wine reviews can raise doubts and cause me to question the true value of the wine as it is being portrayed. Lets face it, our monopoly wine store, the LCBO, is in the business of selling wine. When putting a catalogue like this together, they will search for the highest rating they can find to promote a wine (the hook). One thing to look for, is how long ago the review was written? Who wrote the review? And knowing which grapes age well and which wine is meet to be drank sooner (the rub). Here are a few examples that I want to highlight (red flags) and caution you about, all are from this issue, with the exception of one wine from a previous NR, to make my point.
  • Pillitteri Merlot 2007, Ontario, Canada at $17.95 As a fan of Merlot I was looking forward to the three release Merlots in this NR. Now this Pillitteri Merlot came from the very warm 2007 vintage.
The Hook. The review in the Vintages booklet came from the respected wine writer Natalie MacLean "Plum-lovely with a satin smooth texture! Unfurled ripe, fleshy blackberries on the palate. Medium-to full-bodied. Ages 14 months in American and French oak. Drink 2010-2013 Score 89 points" . This review sure get your attention, $17.95 and 89 points but the review was dated July 20, 2010, a full year and a half ago. Is it still drinking well, right now?

The Rub. Here is a review from Master Sommelier John Szabo of WineAlign dated December 2011 (the rub) "Astonishingly bad wine, volatile oak essence, green, no fruit left to speak of. Bitter, woody finish. Score 79 points". Now this is not Nathalie MacLean's fault, she reviewed the wine as she tasted it in July of 2010. The LCBO at the very least is somewhat disingenuous with the consumers for not providing a more recent review. John Szabo is a very good taster, I agree with 99% of his reviews, his tasting and review was done last month and it reflects how this wine is drinking now. From David Lawrason also from WineAlign “Three bottles showed a level of acetone/nail polish that I find unacceptable…” Tasted January 2012, his score also 79 points. There is no way that this Merlot is getting into my cellar, no matter how much I truly enjoy Merlots.
  • Jim Barry The Lodge Hill Dry Riesling 2011, Australia at $19.95.
The Hook. The review in this booklet is written by Australian wine reviewer James Halliday and gave this wine a score of 95 points. It is well know in the industry the he is a very generous with wines from his country of Australia giving them higher score.

The Rub. The general consensus is you take his review and subtract 5 points, it will then reflect what most wine writers would have given it. I had a friend recently ask me " Paul, there is a Shiraz from Australia on the NR book rated 93 points and selling for $16.95. It seems like a great bargain, what you think of it?" Well you take 93 points minus 5 and you get 88 points. Which was the average from 4 wine reviews in WineAlign. Not one over 89 points, a good wine but not the bargain it seems. Who writes the review is important.
  •  Pelton House Merlot 2005 from Napa County, California at $29.95.
The Hook. There is no recent reviews for this wine yet, but the review in the NR booklet dated May/June 2008 from International Wine Cellar gave it 89 points. Here is one comment in the review which caught my attention "No rough edges here".

The Rub. What does this mean? Smooth wine ready to drink? He did not say hard or aggressive tannins, which would have meant better after a few years in your cellar. The review was written more than 3 ½ years ago and the wine is more than six years old. Before purchasing this wine ask around, maybe your LCBO Product Consultant tried this wine at the pre-release tasting and is able to give you their honest opinion.
  • Freemark Abbey Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 from California. This wine was first released at the LCBO December 15, 2008 for $39.95, than oddly enough re-release 2 ½ years latter on May 28, 2011 for $10.00 less at $29.95.
The Hook. To promote this wine both in the LCBO NR booklet and in store with a review printed on small cardboard notes, the LCBO use a review from Ottawa Citizen wine writer Rod Phillips, dated December 15, 2008, giving it a rating of 4 ½ stars of a possible 5.

The Rub. In the 2 ½ years since Rod Phillips review of 2008 to the re-release in May of 2011, this older Cabernet would have been tasting very differently for sure. In his review of 2008 Rod Phillips said "Already six years old, its components are nicely integrated and it's great drinking now". Other reviews around the same time were giving it a good score. There is a reason why this wine was $10.00 cheaper, 2 ½ years later. This Cabernet was over the hill, with no fruit to speak of, no life, dead fruit and earthy notes. I learned something when I opened that wine in June of 2011. I told myself that I needed to do better research before buying, look at the vintage of the wine, and the year of the review. Yes, I did a review of this wine on my blog.
My top three wines of this release;
1-Penfold Bin 138 Grenache/Shiraz/Mourvèdre 2009 from Australia (468637) at $34.95
2-Descendientes De J. Palacios Pétalos 2009 from Spain (675207) at $22.95
3-Château Le Castelot 2006 from France (245472) at $34.95

My top three wines for value;
1-La Chablisienne Saint-Bris Sauvignon Blanc 2010 from France (641753) at $13.95
2-Morgenhof Estate Chenin Blanc 2010 from South Africa (978544) at $16.95
3-Cooralook Shiraz 2008 from Australia (262451) at $18.95

These wines did not make my shopping list but are worth considering;

Red Wines;
1-Pirramimma Petit Verdot 2008 from Australia (986752) at $26.95
2-Cooralook Shiraz 2008 from Australia (262451) at $18.95
3-Penfold Bin 138 Grenache/Shiraz/Mourvèdre 2009 from Australia (468637) at $34.95
4-Torbreck Cuvée Juveniles 2009 from Australia (723940) at $29.95
5-Ross Estate Lynedoch 2006 from Australia (256156) at $28.95
6-Hech & Bannier St-Chinian 2009 from France (184184) at $23.95
7-Umberto Cesari Liano Sangiovese/Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 from Italy (225086) at $26.95
8-La Madonnina Chianti Classico Riserva 2008 from Italy (191361) at $24.95
9-Vina Herminia Reserva Tinto 2004 from Spain (236927) at $24.95

White Wines;
1-Mer Soleil Barrel Fermented Chardonnay 2009 from California (958975) at $34.95
2-Wakefield Chardonnay 2009 from Australia (711556) at $14.95
3-Ostler Blue House Vines Pinot Gris 2010 from New Zealand (269142) at $24.95
4-La Chablisienne Saint-Bris Sauvignon Blanc 2010 from France (641753) at $13.95

My team and I will be back for the next New Release of February 4, 2012 where the main features will be Inspired Valentine's Day Gifts (expect some expensive red and white here) plus California Cabernet Sauvignon including for fans of Caymus Vineyard, Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 from Napa Valley.

Cheers
Paul, YWG

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