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Sunday, April 14, 2013

California Wine Fair 2013 Canadian Tour – Ottawa, Ontario


I attended the trade portion of this show in the afternoon of April 5, 2013 here in Ottawa. A sure sign that spring has finally arrived, is the annual California Wine Fair travelling throughout Canada and bringing with it their sun drenched, ripe and fruity wines. Into its 33rd year, this travelling wine show will be visiting six Canadian cities, Québec City, Montréal, Ottawa, Toronto, Calgary and Halifax from April 2 to May 2.  This year they will be skipping Vancouver, as California was featured at this year’s Vancouver International Wines Festival (VIWF), held February 25 to March 3, 2013.
 

At the VIWF, I had the opportunity to enjoy about 2 hours tasting some of California wines, my objectives at this wine fair was to visit wineries which I hadn’t visited in Vancouver. After studying the list of wineries and wines being poured at this Fair I tried to follow my list as close as possible starting with white wines, mostly Chardonnay’s with a few Sauvignon Blanc. As for the reds, everything from Bordeaux blends to Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel, Merlot, Syrah and Pinot Noir.
 

White Wines;



Chardonnay; Chardonnay was the featured grape varietal at this year VIWF, after tasting a number of them at that show including many from California, this fair here in Ottawa gave me the opportunity to taste 10 more California Chardonnay. In general I enjoyed most of the Chardonnays’ I tasted, most of them from the cooler regions of Sonoma County and Sonoma Coast, Russian River Valley and Carneros. My two favourites were the very elegant and smooth Benovia Chardonnay 2010 from Russian River Valley and the fuller bodied and creamier Davis Byrum River West Chardonnay 2011 from Russian River Valley.

 

Sauvignon Blanc; I tasted 5 of them and I didn’t enjoy any of them. My preferred style of SB is refreshing with crisp acidity and un-oaked. Almost all of them except one were partly barrel aged, with one of them tasting like an oaky Chardonnay.
 
Red Wines; 

Cabernet Sauvignon; Tasted 14 of them from a variety of ultra premium to a more entry level, $20 to $30 dollars range. I always enjoy the opportunity to taste ultra premium wines, priced out of my affordability range. I find that most of them are serious cellar candidates, big wines, deep color, very concentrated and tannic.

  • My favorite of these ultra premium Cabernets was Heitz Trailside Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 from Rutherford, Napa Valley.
  • I also quite enjoyed Hewitt Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 from Rutherford, Napa Valley, rich, well structured and beautifully balanced.
  • And finally for $35, Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 from Napa Valley, which represents a solid value for such a delicious and well made Cabernet.

 

Merlot; I thoroughly enjoy California Merlots, but few of them were poured at this fair, I tasted two of them. A merlot that did make it into my top 15 wines from this fair, Buccella Merlot 2010 from Napa Valley. This wine is a great example of the type of Merlot I enjoy, rich fruit, savoury herbs, well managed oak maturation with a soft and smooth texture. At $130 a bottle, it is a bit out of my price range but a real treat, small production of only 310 cases.

 

Zinfandel; I tasted seven of them including all four from Seghesio Family Vineyards, which was definitely one of the highlights of the Fair for me, with my favourite of those four being Seghesio Old Vines Zinfandel 2009.  My favourite Zinfandel and my first experience with this winery, was Elyse Morisoli Vineyard Zinfandel 2008. It was an absolute beauty, ripe fruit but not jammy, savoury, incredibly smooth and very elegant, great winemaking skills here.




Pinot Noir; I also tasted seven of them. What I am looking for in a Pinot Noir is descriptors like medium bodied, slightly spicy, earthy notes, wild berry fruit, floral, smooth, light tannins, pretty and feminine. But descriptions like deep color, high alcohol, jammy, oaky and tannic should never be associated with Pinot Noir in my view. These kinds of Pinot Noir are like a wine with a split personality, Bordeaux’s want to be. The only one I enjoyed was Benovia Pinot Noir 2010 from Russian River Valley.

 

Syrah; I only tasted one,  but what a surprise. I would be interested to include Dierberg Vineyard Syrah 2009 from Santa Ynez Valley as a pirate wine in a Rhône Valley Syrah blind tasting. It’s everything you expect in a great Syrah, black fruit, peppery, meaty and savoury notes, and a wine with real sophistication. A great example of a Syrah that could be the next big thing in California.

 
 
 
In conclusion, I did manage on that afternoon to gain better knowledge of California and its wines, by talking with some of the wineries reps and I want to highlight my favourite wineries visited;


- Benovia Winery

- Dieberg Vineyard

- Duckhorn Vineyards

- Flowers Vineyards

- Heitz Cellars

- Schug Carneros Estate

- Seghesio Family Vineyards  

 
 



Here is. in no particular order, my list of top wines from this Fair. You will notice that a majority of them are from the cooler regions of California.

Here are my top 15 wines tasted at this Fair;
1-Benovia Pinot Noir 2010 from Russian River Valley

2-Benovia Chardonnay 2010 from Russian River Valley

3-Buccella Merlot 2010 from Napa Valley

4-Davis Byrum River West Chardonnay 2011 from Russian River Valley

5-Beaulieu Vineyard Reserve Tapestry 2009 from Napa Valley

6-Hewitt Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 from Rutherford, Napa Valley

7-Dierberg Vineyard Syrah 2009 from Santa Ynez Valley

8-Elyse Morisoli Vineyard Zinfandel 2008 from Rutherford, Napa Valley

9-Flowers Vineyards Chardonnay 2010 from Sonoma Coast

10-Heitz Trailside Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 from Rutherford, Napa Valley

11-Paul Hobbs Crossbarn Chardonnay 2010 from Russian River Valley

12-Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 from Napa Valley

13-Schug Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 from Sonoma County

14-Seghesio Home Ranch Zinfandel 2010 from Sonoma County

15-Seghesio Old Vines Zinfandel 2009 Sonoma County
 
 


Saturday, April 13, 2013

Castello Di Bossi C. Berardenga Chianti Classico 2009, Docg Tuscany, Italy




This wine is 100% Sangiovese and opened up with aromas of red berries, plum, cedar, spices and light herbal note. On the mouthfeel, medium-bodied (with alcohol coming in at 14%) with a moderate structure, bright flavours, vibrant acidity and fine dusty tannins. This Chianti finish is medium length with good energy with a nice blend of sweet and sour fruit and spicy. Great wine at the table, excellent fruit-acid balance with carefully restrained oak maturation. My expectations were more than met here, delicious, score 89 points.

Purchased September 1, 2012 LCBO Vintages New Release (994608) at $22.95

Cusumano Noà 2008, IGT Sicilia, Italy




This wine is from a family owned estate and a blend of 40% Nero d’Avola, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot with maturation in barriques for 12 months and alcohol comes in at 14.5%.

Shockingly dark color (charred barrels?), this wine opened up with aromas of black plums, blackberry jam, dried figs, damp earth, liquorice and spices. On the mouthfeel, full-bodied, bold flavours, creamy texture, balanced acidity and sweet grainy tannins. Very good weight and length on the finish with flavours of smoky black fruit, liquorice, spices with and underlying earthiness and those same grainy tannins lingering. Quite an interesting, robust and flavourful wine here, a candidate for short term ageing, 1-2 years. Pair with BBQ red meat, pasta, tomatoes and sausage, strong cheese or pizza after a 1 hour decant. This is a very enjoyable, great value and a made to please blend, strongly recommended, score 90 points.

Purchased April 13, 2013 LCBO Vintages New Release (109512) at $18.95

Thursday, April 11, 2013

Paul's Picks from the LCBO Vintages New Release of April 13, 2013 - Best of the New Zealand and Portugal Features

Hello to all my wine friends,


The main features of this New Release (NR) are; the wines from New Zealand and Portugal, this comes at a good time since I am almost all out of wines from these two countries, and; the Local Talent section, four wines from Prince Edward County, a cooler climate appellation here in Ontario specializing in early ripening grapes like Chardonnay, Riesling, Pinot Noir and Cabernet Franc. This is the fourth NR in a row, with something for fans of California wines.  There are many CA wines set for release this week, 14 wines in total, more product than the featured country of New Zealand. I found this NR to have many affordable little gems and few expensive temptations.


 Now my favourite question; If I were allowed to buy only one wine from this NR, which one would that be? My answer would be; Quinta De Ventozelo Reserva 2009 from Portugal (021329) at $21.95. If you haven’t yet tried any Portuguese red from the Douro Valley, this one would be a great introduction. Now apart from the wines featured in the following two highlighted segments, here are a few wines I would like to bring to your attention;  

Starting with white wines;
  • For fans of Italian Pinot Grigio, here is a new product for Vintages from the Alto Adige region; Kellerei Kaltern Caldaro Pinot Grigio 2011 from Italy (317867) at $16.95.

  • My number one white wine for the value of this NR, Dr. Herman Ürziger Wûrzgarten Riesling Spätlese 2007 from Germany (313528) at $16.95, with a sweetness level of medium, should be paired with spicy Indian or Thai food.

  • Apart from the Dog Point from New Zealand, here are two more Chardonnays worth considering; Rustenberg Chardonnay 2011 from South Africa (598631) at $22.95 and Bachelder Bourgogne Chardonnay 2010 from France (272005) at $29.95.
  
Now for the red wines;
  • My number 1 pick for best value of this NR and also a new product at Vintages, De Angelis Rosso Piceno Superiore 2009 from Italy (324756) at $14.95. An easy drinking wine with many food pairing possibilities, like white and red meat, pizza, pasta and cheese platter.
  • For the many fans of Spanish wines, Marqués De Cáceres Tinto Reserva 2005 from Spain (702761) $24.95 ready to go after a one hour decant.

  • I just tasted this beautiful Bordeaux blend from California at the California Wine Fair last week (a blog post is coming soon about this fair), Beaulieu Vineyard BV Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 from Napa Valley (987420) at $25.95. An elegant, well balanced blend, closer to a Bordeaux in style than California.

  • An finally, with Malbec World Day coming up on April 16, here is a very good valued Malbec, Bodega Séptima Séptimo Día Malbec 2011 from Argentina (219295) at $15.95. Pairing suggestion, most anything prepared on the BBQ or pizza. Well let’s get started;


Best of the New Zealand Featured; It is incredible how in a short period (20 years), New Zealand (NZ) has been able to carve for itself in very nice niche, starting with two wines; Sauvignon Blanc (SB) and Pinot Noir. When I look to purchase a SB, the first place I look is the NZ section. Now unfortunately, in this NR, there are 13 wines being released, from only 4 producers. I wish that there would have been wines from smaller “boutique” wineries, where the attention to detail and quality often outperforms what is being released from the much bigger players. A good example of this is Kim Crawford.  I used to like most of their wines, back in the late 90’s, now they simply lack personality. Their production of  SB wine in 1996 was 4000 cases, in the last year alone 425 000 cases of their SB was sold in the US and one million cases of their wines worldwide were sold in the past year, with 60% going to the US. Since Kim Crawford has been purchased by Vincor and then latter by Constellation Brand, the quality is just not the same. People need to start venturing past Kim Crawford and Oyster Bay for example and try wines from smaller producers. You might be pleasantly surprised as to what you will find. Personally I like to support smaller wineries, its important if you don’t want your wines to taste all the same. I must admit, this is how I shop. I much prefer buying produce and meat product from local farmers as much as I can, again it’s all about quality. Here are my top three picks from New Zealand;


  • Dog Point Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2012 from Marlborough, South Island (677450) at $22.95 –  This would be a great example of the style of Sauvignon Blanc which I enjoy. Made with 100% Sauvignon Blanc with maturation in stainless steel tanks (no oak) and alcohol coming in at 13.5%. Food matching suggestions; summer salads, pork, chicken, seafood, especially scallops and oysters.

  • Dog Point Vineyard Chardonnay 2011 from Marlborough, South Island (238568) at $39.95 –  For fans of the bigger style of SB, this wine matured in older French oak barrels for 8 months with alcohol slightly higher than the previous Dog Point SB at 14%. Food matching suggestions; fish, roast chicken, lobster and pasta in a creamy sauce.

  • Cloudy Bay Pinot Noir 2010 from Marlborough, South Island (598813) at $37.95 –  From a very good producer, this Pinot Noir should provide enjoyment to those who decide to pick up one of these.  This PN is a blend of six different clones, all fruit was de-stemmed, fermentation was started with natural yeast, maturation for each clone was done separately in French oak barrels (approximately 40% new) for 12 months and alcohol comes in at 13%.
        

Best of the Portugal Featured; This is a smaller selection here of 8 wines, compared to NZ 13 wines. There is a certain charm and rusticity to the Portuguese wines which I find quite appealing. Too many wines try to fit into a cookie cutter, to appeal to a mass audience and what I mean by that is high alcohol and sweeter wines. What I like about Portugal is that almost all red wines listed in our Vintages catalogue from this country are listed as extra-dry. As long as they keep improving their winemaking and blending skills, while producing wines with a regional personality, their sales are bound to keep improving. Here are my top three picks from Portugal;

 
  • Deu La Deu Alvarinho Vinho Verde 2011 from the DOC of Monção e Melgaço (040642) at $19.95 –  Vinho Verde is not a grape varietal, the name means “green wine” but should be translated as “young wine”. Vinho Verde makes for great summer sipper or patio wine, the white wine Vinho Verde  are usually inexpensive, light, fresh, crisp and slightly spritzy. This wine is made with Alvarinho grapes and alcohol comes in at 13%.

  • Delaforce Touriga Nacional 2009 from the DOC of Douro (324517) at $18.95 – Most Portuguese wines are a blend of different native grapes but this wine is made exclusively using Portugal's most famous red grape, Touriga Nacional.  Maturation in French oak for 12 months and alcohol coming in at 14%. Food matching suggestions; duck, beef or strong flavoured dish like Moroccan tagine.

  • Quinta De Ventozelo Reserva 2009 from Portugal (021329) at $21.95 – This wine is a blend of the usual Port grapes of Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz and Touriga Franca, maturation 12 months in oak and alcohol comes in at 14.5%. Food matching suggestions; beef, veal or lamb. 

My top three wines from this release;

  1- Domaine Durieu Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2010 from France (320168) at $35.95

2- Cloudy Bay Pinot Noir 2010 from New Zealand (598813) at $37.95

3- Bachelder Bourgogne Chardonnay 2010 from France (272005) at $29.95


My top three wines for value;

1- De Angelis Rosso Piceno Superiore 2009 from Italy (324756) at $14.95

2- Bodega Séptima Séptimo Día Malbec 2011 from Argentina (219295) at $15.95

3- Dr. Herman Ürziger Wûrzgarten Riesling Spätlese 2007 from Germany (313528) at $16.95


My wine picks from this New Release for your considerations;

Red Wines;

1- Cloudy Bay Pinot Noir 2010 from New Zealand (598813) at $37.95

2- Delaforce Touriga Nacional 2009 from Portugal (324517) at $18.95

3- Quinta De Ventozelo Reserva 2009 from Portugal (021329) at $21.95

4- Adriano Ramos Pinto Duas Quintas 2010 from Portugal (359893) at $16.95

5- Château Des Charmes Equuleus 2010 from Ontario (319525) at $40.00

6- Paul Hardie County Unfiltered  Pinot Noir 2011 from Ontario (125310) at $35.00

7- Beaulieu Vineyard BV Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 from California (987420) at $25.95

8- Black Stallion Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 from California (256768) at $29.95

9- Easton Zinfandel 2010 from California (328377) at $22.95

10-Marry Edwards Pinot Noir 2009 from California (656850) at $54.95

11-Shannon Ridge Ranch Collection Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 from California (315663) at $19.95

12-Stonestreet Fifth Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 from California (201749) at $36.95

13-Bodega Séptima Séptimo Día Malbec 2011 from Argentina (219295) at $15.95

14-Henry’s Drive Dead Letter Office Shiraz 2008 from Australia (243659) at $23.95

15-Château du Seuil 2009 from France (326785) at $24.95

16-Domaine des Marrans Fleurie 2011 from France (324897) at $19.95

17-Domaine Parent Pinot Noir Bourgogne 2011 from France (597971) at $21.95

18-Domaine Durieu Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2010 from France (320168) at $35.95

19-De Angelis Rosso Piceno Superiore 2009 from Italy (324756) at $14.95

20-Cusumano Noà 2008 from Italy (109512) at $18.95

21-Castello Di Monterinaldi Chianti Classico Riserva 2007 from Italy (317370) at $23.95

22-Borin Vigna Costa Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 from Italy (317610) at $17.95

23-Marqués De Cáceres Tinto Reserva 2005 from Spain (702761) $24.95


White Wines;

1- Dog Point Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2012 from New Zealand (677450) at $22.95

2- Dog Point Vineyard Section 94 Sauvignon Blanc 2010 from New Zealand (325977) at $39.95

3- Dog Point Vineyard Chardonnay 2011 from New Zealand (238568) at $39.95

4- Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2012 from New Zealand (304469) at $29.95

5- Deu La Deu Alvarinho Vinho Verde 2011 from Portugal (040642) at $19.95

6- Rustenberg Chardonnay 2011 from South Africa (598631) at $22.95

7- Bachelder Bourgogne Chardonnay 2010 from France (272005) at $29.95

8- Dr. Herman Ürziger Wûrzgarten Riesling Spätlese 2007 from Germany (313528) at $16.95

9- Kellerei Kaltern Caldaro Pinot Grigio 2011 from Italy (317867) at $16.95

This is all for me and my team. We will be back for the next New Release of April 27, 2013 where the featured segments are "The Amazing appassimento method" and "Top-quality organic wines".

Cheers
Paul YWG


Hermanos Peciña Señorio de P. Peciña Crianza 2007 DOCa, Rioja, Spain



This Crianza is a blend of 95% Trempranillo, 3% Graciano and 2% Garnacha or Grenache, maturation in seasoned American oak for 24 months than a further two years in bottle before release. Alcohol comes in at 13.5%.

This wine opened up with sensuous aromas of wild berries, exotic spices, tobacco leaf, old church wood and dried flowers. On the mouthfeel, medium bodied, smooth with a soft texture, balance acidity and fined grained tannins. Medium length on the finish, dry, a bit tangy, rustic and slightly disjointed and lacking energy and finesse. I love the aromatics and mouthfeel but the finish didn’t do it for me, score 87 points.

Purchased March 30, 2013 LCBO Vintages New Release (313726) at $19.95

Tuesday, April 9, 2013

Cellole Chianti Classico Riserva 2007, Docg Tuscany, Italy




This wine is made with 95% Sangiovese and in a supporting role, Merlot with the remaining 5%, maturation took place in new and second use barriques of 225 litres for 18-20 months than a further 6 months in bottle before being released.  Alcohol comes in at 14.5%.

A beautiful deep ruby in color, this Chianti opened up with exotic aromas of dark berry fruit, prunes, Asian spices, dried flowers, mushrooms and sandalwood. On the mouthfeel, full bodied, dry, dark fruit, earthy and gentle wood spices flavours with balance acidity and chewy tannins. This wine’s finish is long with great texture and a fine mixture of sweet and sour fruit which works quite beautifully. This is a more robust style of Chianti Classico Riserva, which struck a good balance between old and new world. I so enjoyed this wine, lots of charm, personality and great flavours, I went back to repurchase. Strongly recommended, score 91 points.

Purchased March 16, 2013 LCBO Vintages New Release (56945) at $26.95

Monday, April 8, 2013

Jabob's Creek St-Hugo Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, Coonawarra, South Australia, Australia


 
These Cabernet grapes were grown in the famed terra rosa soil of Coonawarra in South Australia with maturation taking place in a combination of French oak and American oak hogshead for 23 months and alcohol coming in at 14.5%.

This Cabernet opened up with aromas of blackberry, cassis, chocolate, rosemary, spicy and minty. On the mouthfeel, full bodied, powerful, tasty with toasty oak and savoury flavours, balanced acidity and fine structured tannins. Wonderful robust flavours and texture on the finish with fined grained tannins lingering. Because of this Cabernet’s savoury and minty personality, I paired this wine with BBQ lamb chops and it work beautifully. Very enjoyable, score 92 points.

Purchased March 1, 2013 at the Vancouver International Wine Festival for $24.99